"Livin' better now...  Coogi sweater now...," is one of my favorite rap riffs of all time and a reflection of where I now see myself in life.

In the past, I would visit the Coogi website weekly and salivate over the line of limited edition clothing that changed every quarter.

I would mentally file away all the items that I wanted but couldn't afford.  That is until now.

Currently, I have over two hundred Coogi items that I floss year round.  

"Liven' better now...  Coogi sweater now..."

Although, I collect Coogi dress shirts, jeans and jackets, the sweaters are what I covet most.

When fashion-challanged individuals gawk at a Coogi sweater they are over-whelmed with the swirling colors and wonder why someone would wear on.

However, when I look at a Coogi sweater I see a work of art.

I've always been fascinated with art in its various forms and feel that clothing that mixes art with wearability is the ultimate expression of artistic expression. 

This article expands on hazem the architect behind the science of the complex patterns that make the brand of Coogi recognizable on sight.

 


 

During the winter of 1986 while at my Studio in Port Douglas I was approached by Jacky Toranto the original founder of the fashion label CUGGI who commissioned me to create ideas and designs for his label.

 

I did not focus on the normal fashion styles of the times as it was impossible to distiguish between the millions of different fashion labels already in the market place. I immediately opposed the normal methods of creating fashion and concentrated solely on an idea to brand my designs visually.

 

I began to create stitch confguratons that where instantly recognisable from any distance on first sight which was like wearing the label on the outside of the garment. 

 

 

 

The technology at the time was very limited and I began to invent a system of mathematical algorithms in order to translate the complex Muli-dimensional geometry into digital machine codes for a variety of needle gauges.

 

The first true COOGI creations came early in 1988 and the rest they say is history. At the height of my tenure the company’s annual turnover topped over 100,000 original units per season which made the COOGI one of the largest textile based companies in Australian. 

 

My commission lasted over 10 years and my Muli-dimensional Stitch formulas are still being used successfully today. I resigned my offcial positon in 1997 and the company and label was sold to a USA based corporation soon after.

 

 

The basic principles behind the invention of the Muli - Dimensional stitch equations are formed in a series of geometric algorithms.

 

The normal dimensions of the X/Y/Z planes are not a sufficent model to create complex stitch structures. Also the state of the art CAD systems do not allow for Muli-dimensonal design as most advanced systems that control textile machinery are 2D based meaning that a flat pixel is used to express a stitch vector position in fabric construction.

 

I invented a ‘floating’ vector point principle which was placed on multiple X/Y/Z planes which could be constructed without base support structures. As these equations developed I had to invent a mathematical language to translate machine data to the technicians who would eventually use the formulations as commercial fabric structures.

 

Stitch section of the "THEO" one of the first examples of the iconic COOGI look. Winter Collection 1989

 

Initial Stitch sketch design layout sequence hand draw with pencil. Copyright Hazem 2015.

 

Colour & 3D stitch structure design layout. Hand painted. Copyright Hazem 2015.

 

Multi-dimensional floating vector stitch construction sequence layout. Copyright Hazem 2015.

 

 

Multi-dimensional stitch equations can create any shape, form or complex structure using any know textile manufacturing technique. Once the theory of construction is transfered to machine data the basic limitations of fabric construction are removed thus allowing for a far greater variety of structures then where previously available. These unique structures create a complex symphony of fibre control.

 

 

Every stitch structure that forms the dynamic COOGI signiture look was born from a variety of original works of Art.

 

As I express myself the freedom and joy  I experience are transformed into vivid 3 dimensional fibre sculptures allowing me to continue the life of my work into another medium. 

 

 

Focusing on selected sections from the paintings is then hand drawn pixel by pixel into a Jacquard which is digital machine data.

 

Once the Jacquard is drawn the stitch data is then created. The stitch construction formula that transforms the 2D image into a multi - dimensional 3D fiber structure is a complex series of floating vector equations.

 

 

 

 

Every stitch structure that forms the dynamic COOGI signiture look was born from my personal Art works.

 

As I express myself the freedom and joy  I experience are transformed into vivid 3 dimensional fibre sculptures allowing me to continue the life of my work into another medium.

 

 

Every stitch structure that forms the dynamic COOGI signiture look was born from my personal Art works.

 

As I express myself the freedom and joy  I experience are transformed into vivid 3 dimensional fibre sculptures allowing me to continue the life of my work into another medium. 

 

 

Every stitch structure that forms the dynamic COOGI signiture look was born from my personal Art works.

 

As I express myself the freedom and joy  I experience are transformed into vivid 3 dimensional fibre sculptures allowing me to continue the life of my work into another medium. 

 

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